"The road you can talk about is not the road you can walk on."
Lao-Tse - Tao Te Ching
At about 2.10pm the bus is driving through
Winson Green.
For the
uninitiated, Clare and I are indulging in a spot of
guerrilla ethnomethodology aboard Birmingham's legendary number 11 bus. Some youths board the bus and sit behind us. This doesn't concern us, however, as everyone else on the top deck is sitting behind us, too. That's what happens when you sit on the front seat.
Before long, we notice a suspicious, burning odour coming from behind. This isn't the typical, pungent, herb-based burning odour that's commonly associated with philosophy students, jazz
aficionados and the top deck of a double
decker bus, though. This doesn't smell like anything exotic, illegal or
monged. No, it smells like
someone is baking a jacket potato.
"Kids nowadays," says Clare.
We're driving through
Winson Green, and
Winson Green - of course - is best known for its prison. In fact, to most
Brummies, '
Winson Green'
means prison. In this respect it joins a long list of locations that seem forever lumbered with deep-seated incarceration associations. Notorious places like
Strangeways in Manchester,
Alcatraz in San Francisco and
Portmeirion in Wales.
Which is a bit of shame, really. If you manage to
separate the word from its links with the local lock-up, then
Winson Green itself is quite a pretty name for a place. It wouldn't seem out of place in
Trumptonshire, alongside
Camberwick Green and
Chigley.
Of course, things like that are always easier said than done. This place and its prison seem to be
neuro-linguistically fused in the popular imagination. It'll take more than Zen detachment and baked potatoes to sever those tethers.
The fact the 11 bus drives straight past the prison probably doesn't help.